"Sparkles"

It's not uncommon to notice "sparkles" on some satellite channels almost all of the time.  Some satellite channels utilize lower power transmission signals than others, and this can cause your receiver to deliver less than optimum picture quality.   Some services, like the channels found on the Morelos and Anik satellites are aimed at other countries so the continental U.S. doesn't receive clear signals.   In either case the signal is so weak that your receiver can't make good pictures.  In this case your receiver really doesn't have a problem, it's doing the best it can with the signal it's receiving.

Some older receivers, like the Uniden UST-7700 or UST-9900, have an inherent problem on the main circuit board that translates satellite signals into pictures your television can show.  As these receivers age certain components break down and can no longer deliver clean video.  Some satellite repair centers are capable of repairing these systems, but you'll probably be happier investing a little more money into a new receiver that will give you features not available on your old system.  And, with the introduction of the new 4DTV Digital C and Ku-band receiver, you can spend a little more and get many more channels with absolutely no sparkles at all!

Sparkles can also be the result of LNB failure.  As an LNB ages it may suffer frequency drift and will not read signals accurately, resulting in sparkles.   Replacing the LNB is the only solution to this problem.  Today's LNBs operate at a much cooler noise temperature than ever before, and they have the capability to deliver better pictures.  It is not uncommon to find LNBs with noise temperatures of 25 degrees Kelvin or lower.  However, very few consumer grade dishes can deliver a signal with a noise temperature lower than 40 degrees Kelvin, so the low noise claims of most LNB manufacturers are almost irrelevant.  But, a good low noise LNB can make a noticeable difference if your old LNB has problems.

Trees can also cause reception problems, and sparkles.  When your system was installed you may have had a perfect view of the satellite arc, but over time trees grow and interfere with reception.  To determine whether or not trees are causing reception problems, move your dish to the satellite giving you the worst problems and walk outside to see for yourself what the dish is "seeing".  Stand behind the dish and look up past the feedhorn assembly.  Are there tree limbs obscuring any part of the dish's view?  Maybe the top of a tree has grown up into the signal path and is partially blocking reception.  A little trimming can fix this problem, and you'll be watching clear pictures again.  Be prepared to be a good neighbor, because if the guilty tree is on your neighbor's property you'll have some persuading to do!

The Dish Won't Move.  If you try to change satellites and get an on-screen message that says "Actuator Error" or "Motor Error", or the display just flashes, you have motor problems.  There are a few causes for motor problems, and most of them are relatively simple. 

The control wiring has become disconnected - Check the connections on the back of your receiver or actuator controller, and on the motor itself, to be sure that they're tight.  If not, take a little time to make the connections good and solid.  This will require a screwdriver and a few minutes of your time, that's all.

The control wiring has been damaged.  This is not an uncommon occurrence.   Lawnmowers, weedeaters, garden tractors, ambitious dogs, and curious children can easily break or cut control wiring.  While it is tempting to grab a roll of electrical tape and twist the wiring together for a quick fix, please be aware that you are dealing with electricity, and that water will always find it's way into a splice - always.   Even if you use silicon sealants and some creative method of sheltering your splice, water will eventually find its way into the electrical connection.  Replace the cable.  It's not expensive, and it's the best solution.

The Actuator Sensor has failed.  Located inside the motor drive assembly is a small device which senses each revolution of the motor as it moves the dish between satellites.  Different brands and types do this different ways, but the end result is the same.  This is how your satellite system "remembers" where the satellites are.  It knows what number to stop on to receive signals from the satellite you requested, and keeps track of the number of times the motor turns until it reaches the number it's looking for.  If this sensor fails your system will refuse to move the dish because it is programmed to protect itself from "getting lost".   Replacement of an actuator sensor is simple and inexpensive - usually the sensor itself will cost between $20 and $40, and the only tool you'll probably need is a screwdriver.  However, if you have "tricked" your system into moving in spite of the error message, you may want to call a satellite professional to reprogram your system - because none of the satellites will be where you expect them to be any more!   When you move the dish in this condition your system can't change the counter, so it can't keep track of its actual position, and it gets "lost".

The Motor has failed.  Sorry, but if this has happened it's time to get your checkbook and buy a new one.  Go ahead and buy the whole assembly - motor, screw drive, etc., because you'll have a hard time finding just a motor.  Besides, the rest of the assembly has aged along with the motor and is probably not long for this world.   A new actuator will improve dish performance and accuracy, especially if you have KU capability and the original actuator was more than a few years old. Depending upon the size and make of your dish (and how much it weighs) this will cost from $100 to $300.  Replacement is simple, but it can be tricky getting the dish back on track again after moving it to replace the drive.  If you take a few notes, measure things accurately, and ask your satellite dealer for some advice, you can avoid a huge headache.  If you don't, you'll be calling a satellite professional for service to realign the dish and reprogram the receiver.

The Actuator Controller has failed.  Unfortunately, this problem will require that your controller - whether it is built into your IRD or is a separate unit - will require service at a qualified service facility.  Due to the complexity of disconnecting and reconnecting the equipment, and the need to reprogram the controller after the repair is completed, you may want to call a satellite professional to remove and replace the unit.  If you are careful,  labeling all of the wiring accurately and drawing a hookup diagram to simplify reinstallation, you may be able to do the job yourself and just take the unit to a satellite professional for service and reinstall it yourself.  But, you must reprogram the satellite positions upon reinstallation because the service center will reset the unit's memory during the repair and testing process.  If you believe you can handle it, go for it!  Otherwise call a satellite professional.  Also, if your unit is more than a few years old, you may want to consider upgrading to a new one instead of repairing the old one.

The Dish: 

Materials, Maintenance, and Replacement:  Today's dishes are made from lightweight aluminum with steel support elements.   Rust or decay usually isn't a problem with aluminum mesh dishes.  Consumer grade fiberglass dishes deteriorate over time due to exposure to the elements, and are best replaced with new aluminum units rather than repaired.  Steel mesh dishes can rust and should be treated with rust retarding paints to preserve their panels, otherwise the panels can deteriorate.  If your steel mesh dish panels have rusted to the point of creating gaps in the mesh, replace the dish with an aluminum mesh unit - especially if you have Ku band capability.  A complete dish, including the mount, can be purchased for less than $400.00.  Call your satellite professional for accurate installation.

Damage:  Occasionally we hear from a customer who has damaged their dish by denting it with a vehicle, lawn tractor, etc.  Dented or bent dish panels can be straightened, but they will never be as accurate as they were in their original condition.   Since the purpose of the dish is to focus reflected satellite signals onto the feed horn it is vital that the dish parabola (curvature and focus) is true.  Any warping of the dish will result in signal loss and lower quality pictures.  The best solution is to replace the damaged panels or the entire dish.  Some satellite dealers stock dish parts, and you may be able to replace only the damaged panels.  But, you will need replacement parts for exactly the same brand and model because competing manufacturers build dishes differently.  Sizes vary slightly, bolt holes won't align properly, support rings won't attach at the same points, feed supports will attach differently, etc.

Assembling a replacement:  If you decide to replace your dish, do a little prep work before you take the old dish down - it'll save you a lot of time and trouble later! 

1.  Using your satellite receiver or dish positioner, lower the dish to its lowest satellite position and turn the satellite system off. 

2.  Remove the coaxial cable and control wires from the feedhorn.  Disconnect the actuator control wiring. 

3.  Measure and write down the distance between the actuator motor and the actuator gimble.  You will need this measurement to put the new dish on track.  Also measure and write down the distance between the actuator gimble and the attachment eye on the dish.  Now you can remove the actuator arm assembly - but DO NOT twist the end of the screw driven arm!  (If you are replacing a horizon-to-horizon drive with a screw-arm assembly, you may need professional assistance to set the proper parameters)

5.  Measure the threaded alignment rods on the mounting ring assembly and write the measurements down.   These measurements must be transferred to the new dish.  The settings vary based upon your geographical location and must be exactly right for proper dish tracking.

6.  Loosen the bolts on the mounting collar and lift the dish off of the pole.   You will probably need help lifting the dish.

Assembling the new dish:

Be sure to assemble the new dish face down on a flat surface.  This will assure that all of the sections align properly.  Tighten all nuts and bolts securely before moving the dish, or you'll warp the dish and have to reassemble it again.  Once the sections are tightly assembled, turn the dish over and attach the feed arms and the feed assembly - do this on the ground, the upper supports will be out of reach when the dish is on the pole.  Check for the proper focal distance for the feed assembly - this is vital for proper performance!   Your satellite dealer should be able to provide this information if it is not included in the paperwork that comes with the dish.  All of this is relatively simple, and almost anyone "handy" with tools should be able to do it without a problem.  And, if you did good prep work before you took the old dish down you should have no problem setting up the new one.

When you put the new assembly on the pole:

1.  Turn the dish so that the polar arm (the slanted vertical arm that everything else pivots on) points due north (you should be able to look up its length and site in on the North Star), and snug the bolts down gently - leaving enough freedom to move the dish for fine tuning.  This should result in the face of the dish pointing due south and facing the peak of the satellite arc - the same direction your old dish was pointing before you took it off of the pole.  (If you use a little common sense you can simply mark the old mount and pole before removal, and duplicate the marking on the new mount.)

2.  Check the threaded alignment rods for proper adjustment.  Manufacturers set these at the factory, and they may need to be reset for your location.

3.  Gently lower the dish to its lowest position and attach the coaxial cable and control wiring to the feed assembly. 

4.  Install the actuator arm on the mounting bracket leaving the gimble loose enough to allow the arm to slip through it.  If you purchased a new arm, unscrew the end of the arm until it is the same length as the old arm at its lowest satellite position.  Slip the dish upwards to the lowest satellite position (the measurement you took from the actuator motor to the gimble) and tighten the gimble.  This should place the dish on - or very near - the lowest satellite, where you parked the dish for the beginning of the disassembly process.

5.  Tighten the dish mounting collar to the pole.  Go to your receiver and   try calling up a few satellites to check dish alignment.  If you did your work properly you should be very close if not right on them.  If you're missing satellites in the middle or on the ends of the arc, the threaded adjustment rods will need adjustment.  Call a professional in your area for help.  You may be able to get some free advice.  If not, a service call shouldn't cost you too much.

If you notice that your satellite system is missing the programming on all of the odd or even numbered channels, your polarity servo may have failed.  This servo motor is the little plastic box mounted on the feed horn assembly and is connected to three color-coded control wires.  Its function is to swap polarities as you change channels (more on this below), and if it fails, you lose every other channel.  You may notice that you've lost even channels on some satellites, and odd channels on other satellites - this is a normal symptom of servo motor failure.

"Why odds and evens?"

To reduce interference between satellite channels, each channel broadcasts its signal at opposite polarity to the channels above and below, and the opposite polarity of the same channel on adjacent satellites.  So, if channel 2 is horizontal, channels 1 and 3 will be vertical, and channel 2 on the adjacent satellites on either side will probably be vertical (not always, but usually).  KU band satellites don't always follow this plan, but most all C band satellites do.

The servo motor turns, or "skews", a tiny antenna element inside the feed horn to the proper polarity to receive the incoming signal.   This is why most receivers allow skew adjustment for fine tuning pictures - sometimes factory preprogrammed skew settings aren't quite right, and need to be adjusted for optimum picture quality.

Knowing this, it's easy to understand why half of your channels go away when the servo fails.

Before you buy a new servo, check your control wires for positive connections, nicks, cuts, abrasion, etc.  If connections are loose, tighten them.  If the wire is damaged, check to see if there are any unused wires in your satellite cable which could be used to serve as a replacement for the damage wire(s).  In most cases where only C band is being used, another coaxial cable is left in the wiring bundle which is not being utilized (satellite cable is manufactured with two coaxial cables, one for C and one for KU).  This coax can be used to substitute for up to two of the control wires if they are damaged by attaching the center conductor to one control connection and the braided shield to the other.  If there are no wires to "recruit", you'll need to purchase wire suitable for controlling the servo.  Check with your satellite dealer for his or her  recommendation.

Servo replacement is simple, and usually only requires a small phillips screwdriver.   Lower the dish to its lowest position,  remove the feed cover and look for the little plastic box on the feed assembly.  Disconnect the wires and take the servo to your satellite dealer, they'll probably have an exact replacement in stock for less than $40.  Replace the servo and attach the color-coded control wires using the attachment clips provided with the new unit.  Replace the feed cover and check the performance.   Servo life expectancy varies depending upon climate and amount of use.  We have seen servos last for as long as ten years and as little as one year.

If replacing the servo doesn't remedy the problem, take the receiver to your satellite dealer and ask them to check the servo voltage (unless you can do this yourself with a voltmeter).  If the receiver isn't delivering voltage to the servo it will need to be serviced by a factory authorized technician.

Sorry, but we can't help you find your lost remote control - except to suggest that you look under the couch cushions again.... and try looking in the the refrigerator, really.  But, we can offer a few suggestions regarding odd remote behavior.

"Sluggish Response"

This is usually caused by battery failure.  When the Eveready Bunny starts to die, he doesn't move as quickly as he used to.  The fact is that when the remote control has drained the batteries to a certain point it will have trouble getting enough consistent power to function properly.  You may have picked up remote and turned a device on, and then the remote refuses to do anything else.  This usually happens because the act of executing that first command drained the batteries to a level just below the lowest operating power for your remote, and they can't deliver that level of power again without resting for several hours.  Replace the batteries and things will return to normal.

"Certain Keys Won't Work"

Usually this happens to "Enter" or "Select", "1", "2", "Channel Up/Dn", and "Volume".  Think about how much these particular keys are used on an average day.  The number keys are usually all on one sheet of molded rubber with carbon contacts on the back of each number key which complete circuits traced on a circuit board inside the remote when pressed.   These carbon contacts eventually wear down due to friction and stop functioning properly.  If this happens, the rubber keypad sheet must be replaced and the circuit board cleaned thoroughly.  Many satellite system remote controls are dealer serviceable, but most average system remotes for TVs, VCRs, etc. will probably need to be replaced.

"It Won't Control My TV!"

This is a fairly common complaint from new DSS or 4DTV owners who aren't familiar with "universal" remote controls.  We get several calls per week from customers who say their new Satellite remote doesn't work.  It's usually just a simple press of a single button that solves everything.  "Universal" remotes are designed to control the basic functions of several different devices, but usually won't control the higher functions, such as VCR timer programming or TV menu settings.  In the case of DSS remotes, they're designed to control all of the functions of your DSS, but only the basic functions of the TV and VCR.  And, many owners have difficulty in remembering that they must "tell" a "universal" remote what to control by pressing the appropriate device button.  To control the TV, press the "TV" button and then change channels.  The same for VCRs, etc.  Also, there's a button on the remote marked "TV/DSS" or "TV/SAT" that switches the RF output on channel 3 or 4 off so that you can record off the satellite system while watching local TV.  If this button has bee pressed you won't see anything but "snow" on the channel 3 or 4 until you press the button again.  This is usually the cause of angry calls from new owners, and the cause of moderate embarrassment when they realize what has happened!